President of the European Commission, Ursula von der Leyen’s gold jacket at India’s Republic Day parade turned heads for all the right reasons. Inspired by the traditional achkan, the look blended fashion with foreign policy.
Firstpost decodes the symbolism behind the outfit.
In global diplomacy, fashion often speaks before words do. A carefully chosen outfit can signal respect, cultural awareness and political intent, turning clothing into a subtle but powerful diplomatic tool.
When
Ursula von der Leyen, President of the European Commission, appeared at India’s Republic Day celebrations during her official visit, her presence carried both political and cultural weight.
While the occasion itself underscores the growing relationship between India and the European Union, it is the choice of attire that offered a quieter, more visual form of diplomacy.
Von der Leyen was seen wearing a gold-patterned long jacket paired with crisp white trousers, a look that blended European tailoring with Indian ceremonial style.
The jacket featured a structured, long-line maroon silhouette, closely resembling the achkan or sherwani, garments traditionally worn on formal and state occasions in India.
Crafted in a rich brocade or Jacquard fabric, the jacket carried an intricate floral and botanical motif woven into the textile. The antique gold design, set against a deep maroon base, gave the outfit a regal finish, while the restrained styling kept it contemporary and elegant.
Republic Day, which commemorates the adoption of India’s Constitution, has long served as a diplomatic stage as much as a national celebration. The choice of Chief Guests and the visual language surrounding the event often reflect India’s foreign policy priorities.
In this context, the EU president’s outfit appeared thoughtfully aligned with the occasion, signalling cultural awareness and respect for Indian tradition.
The design of the jacket draws from the achkan sherwani, a knee-length coat that originated during the Mughal era and reflects a blend of Persian and Indian influences.
Fashion expert and designer, Akanksha Gupta describes, “Historically worn by Hindu and Muslim nobility in regions such as Rajasthan and Hyderabad, the achkan became a marker of authority, refinement and social standing.”
“Over time, the silhouette evolved into the Nehru jacket, now globally recognised as a symbol of Indian political identity and diplomacy,” notes Gupta.
Gupta says, “The jacket has a high mandarin collar, a style often chosen for diplomatic events for its dignified, formal appearance. It features long, set-in sleeves and a clean, buttonless front (or hidden closure), which allows the detailed fabric to remain the central focus.”
Gupta further says that achkan-inspired garments are often chosen for high-level diplomatic appearances because of their dignified structure and historical resonance.
According to her, when such silhouettes are executed in luxurious fabric and modern tailoring, they communicate respect and authority without appearing theatrical. This balance, she explains, is key to successful cultural dressing on international stages.
It is the honor of a lifetime to be Chief Guests at the Republic Day celebrations.
A successful India makes the world more stable, prosperous and secure.
And we all benefit ↓ https://t.co/boeqFGv15Q
— Ursula von der Leyen (@vonderleyen) January 26, 2026
Von der Leyen’s appearance alongside António Costa, President of the European Council, also marked a notable moment in India-EU relations, with senior European Union leadership jointly engaging in Republic Day diplomacy.
Ursula von der Leyen’s four-day visit to India comes ahead of the 16th India-EU Summit scheduled later this week and is being seen as a major step towards strengthening political, economic and strategic engagement between New Delhi and Brussels.
Seen through this lens, the outfit became part of a broader narrative. The gold brocade jacket is not just a fashion choice but a reflection of evolving ties between India and the European Union.
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